Big surf hits Southern California beaches, raising risk of rip currents

Surfers check out the swell at Doheny State Beach in Dana Point on Tuesday, July16, 2019, as they drive by with their boards on their car. (Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Dan Riesgo took a minute to look out to the ocean Tuesday morning, July 16, to assess the conditions before heading out on his stand-up paddleboard to where big waves were rolling in at Doheny State Beach.

He stretched his paddle out toward the ocean — to where waves were calmer and fewer people were sitting on their surfboards — and pointed out a safer area to his 13-year-old son, Declan Riesgo.

There would be less chance of being clobbered by incoming waves at the Dana Point surf break.

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